Around The Villages of Butlerstown and Timoleague
The local towns are Bandon, Timoleague,
Courtmacsherry and Clonakilty. However the most famous town in the neighbourhood is
Kinsale (Cionn Saile: tide
head), which is 18 miles.
Its fame was established years ago as a quaint seaside town with delicious restaurants and
carefully preserved 18th-century buildings. In the 1960's Heidi McNeice, the wife of
the poet, opened the first restaurant here and it rapidly became a magnet for the world's
glitterati. In the last decade it has become unquestionably the gourmet capital of
Ireland; with music and cinema stars bidding up local real estate values, it is also one
of the most expensive. Kinsale is a National Tidy Towns Winner toobut for all
that its still a very agreeable place. Once, it was an important naval port. In 1601
the Irish joined forces with Spain against the English, and the Spanish fleet anchored
here before the disastrous battle of Kinsale, which led to the Flight of the
Earls and put an end to the rebellion against Elizabeth I and her reconquest of
Ireland. St Multose Church is the oldest building in town, parts of it dating
from the 13th century. Inside are the old town stocks. The churchyard has several
interesting 16th-century gravestones which in spring are covered in whitebells and
bluebells, and in summer red valerian grows out of crevices in every wall. Desmond
Castle, a tower house from the 1500s, was once use as a custom house, and later as a
prison for captured American sailors in the War of Independence; it now houses an
International Museum of Wine. There is also an interesting museum in
the old courthouse and market building, with material associated with the life of the town
and port through the centuries.
To the south, on the R604, near Ballinspittle, is a ring-fort from about ad 600.
There are some superb sandy beaches at the resort of Garrettstown, a little further
south on the R604, and splendid cliff scenery at the
Old Head of
Kinsale at the end of the road (to see it, and the old lighthouse on the point,
youll need to pay an admission fee to the golf course that occupies most of Old
Head). Round the Old Head, just 7 miles outside the attractive village of Summercove, the
remains of a 15th-century De Courcy castle overlook the blue- and white-flecked
sea. Charles Fort in Summercove was built in the 1600s (in the time of Charles
II), as a military strong point. It is shaped like a star and you can wander round its
rather damp nooks and crannies. The severe 18th and19th-century houses inside were used as
barracks.
Timoleague is
dominated by the ruins of a Franciscan abbey founded in 1312. It has a fairly
complete cloister and an outer yard, and is always accessible to the public. Timoleague
Church of Ireland is also well worth a visit with its wonderful Victorian Hindu interior.
Clonakilty, a comfortable old shoe of a
village that seems a world away from Kinsale, was the birthplace of Michael Collins. It
has a Model Railway Village that recreates the world of the long-closed West Cork Railway,
and a small stone circle at Templebrian, north of the village off the N71, as well as a
fine broad beach at Incheydoneythis one is becoming a bit overdeveloped, but if
youre looking for beach solitude there are plenty of others in the coves and inlets
around Clonakilty. A little further west, Rosscarbery is a charming old-fashioned
village. It had a famous school of learning founded by St Fachtna in the 6th century, and
a medieval Benedictine monastery. The very attractive 17th-century Church of Ireland
church is on the old cathedral site. Inland to the west, in the valley of the little River
Roury, stands the ruin of Coppingers Court, a ruined Elizabethan or Jacobean
mansion, burnt out in 1641, which gives shelter to cows in winter. It stands to the left,
off an unclassified road between Leap and Rosscarbery. From Roury Bridge, a country road
(R507) winds to
Dromberg Stone Circle, from where you can see
across pastures and cornfields to the sea. It is dated between the 2nd century bc and 2nd
century ad. A cremated body was discovered in the centre of the circle when it was
excavated. The beaches of Owenahincha and, to the east, the Longstrand have
wonderful sand. Union Hall and Glandore are two pretty resort villages on a
narrow inlet 5 miles (8km) west of Rosscarbery, whose harbours are filled with highly
painted boats.
Watersports include scuba diving, boating, etc. Horseriding, golfing (at The Old Head championship course as well as at the informal Lissellen Course) and skeet shooting are all available locally.
