Ireland - Family Tour - August 2007

 

I

reland is nothing if not a mix of fact and fancy. The Irish have woven tales forever, creating in the process the myths and martyrs for which its people are so well loved. Stories have poured forth from the Emerald Island as freely and as easily as stout flows from her innumerable pubs. Remember, James Joyce was an Irishman.

Ireland is a thing of beauty too, a place where orchids, of all things, grow beside thorny, fragrant pines, and where the furious Atlantic beats up against stony black cliffs with an anger that sends seabirds flying. And Ireland is full of contrasts. Sleepy hamlets lie tucked into velvety valleys where folk live a life unchanged for centuries. Meanwhile, twentysomethings fill the theaters in Galway , and designer wear sells in swank shops along Grafton Street in Dublin .

A Bit of History

Evidence of life on the Emerald Island stretches back 9,000 years to a tribe of Mesolithic hunter-fishers who inhabited the coasts of Ireland . In 500 B.C. the Firbolgs, who lived on the island, met their first conquerors, the Celts (or Gaels), master horsemen from Spain and France . They brought with them a primitive tribal structure, the raw material for what would become a well-organized society. Saint Patrick brought the word of Christ to Ireland in 423 A.D. As Christianity spread, monasteries became the center of population clusters, and it was here that clan kings stowed their treasures. Monks’ elaborate manuscripts, such as the Book of Kells, still survive as an early testament to the Irish talent for storytelling. Beginning in the ninth century the Irish people suffered repeated attacks by the Vikings. It was not until King Brian Ború defeated the Vikings in 1014 at the Battle of Clontarf that the Norse tyranny was brought to an end. The Irish, however, would suffer continued invasions throughout their history. 

The Normans were the next to arrive, sent to Ireland by King Henry II of England at the request of Dermot MacMurrough, who had set his sights on the throne of Ireland . For the next 300 years the Normans dug in their heels, establishing a powerful foothold, buying up large plots of land, building fortified castles, and introducing feudalism. Henry VIII proclaimed himself king of Ireland in 1541 and insisted that Irish lords surrendered their land to the crown, which would then “regrant the land by the grace of the king.” Royal clansmen, who had ruled regionally for centuries, fled to Spain . King James I of England is remembered in Ireland for the Plantation of Ulster, in which he ordered Protestant Scotsmen and Englishmen to settle in Ulster . The religious mix simply did not work, and the chronic unrest between Catholics and Protestants began. In 1641 Ulster Catholics in Portadown attempted to recover their confiscated land. Twelve thousand Protestants were killed during the rebellion. Nevertheless England continued its push to suppress the practice of Catholicism in Ireland . Resentful Catholics staged the Great Rebellion, but they were defeated by Oliver Cromwell, whose 20,000 troops killed one-third of Ireland ’s Catholic population by 1652 and handed over its land to Protestants. When James II, a Roman Catholic, ascended to the English throne, Irish Catholics were hopeful, but their optimism was short-lived. James was defeated in 1690 at the Battle of Boyne by William of Orange. Catholics in Ireland became the persecuted majority. Penal codes barred them from holding public office or indulging in a variety of social activities. Land ownership was forbidden. Inheritance laws dictated that when a Catholic property-owner died his land was divided up between his sons unless one son converted to Protestantism— in which case that son got everything. 

By the mid-1700s only seven percent of Ireland was owned by Catholics. Pressure for change built steadily. In 1782 the Irish Volunteers, 80,000 strong, posed such a threat that the English granted Ireland its independence—more or less. In fact the Irish still owed their allegiance to the British crown, Catholics were still denied a role in the politics of their own country, and the English Parliament still manipulated policy in Ireland . Disaffection with English rule reached a climax in 1798 with a significant rebellion. In six weeks of fighting 50,000 people died. Two years later the Act of  Union made Ireland a part of the United Kingdom . The Irish Parliament was dissolved and instead Ireland was represented by 100 members of Parliament in the House of Commons—none of whom was Catholic. Daniel O’Connell, a Catholic lawyer from Kerry, campaigned for the right of Catholic Irishmen to become members of  Parliament. In 1828, in a stunning victory, O’Connell won that right, and went on to call for home rule, the right of Ireland to decide domestic policy as an independent government. His countrymen lent strong support to O’Connell, but fate interrupted with the Great Famine of 1845. Failed potato crops for five years caused the death of one million citizens and prompted another million or so to set sail for America in search of a better life. In the later half of the 19th century the Irish Republic Brotherhood dedicated itself to Irish home rule, assisted by a branch in the United States that called itself the Irish Republican Army. As home rule became more and more the dominant theme, Ireland became more and more divided. Protestants in the north were not interested in separating from the protectors in Great Britain , while Catholics sought an independent Irish identity. 

On 24 April 1916 the Easter Rising took place in Dublin . Bands of armed rebels—this time middle-class intellectuals—brought the city to a halt, taking over the post office, a biscuit factory, a brewery, and a bakery, among other things. Later the leaders of the Rising would be executed, and they would be remembered forevermore as Ireland ’s greatest martyrs. From 1919 to 1921 the Anglo-Irish war raged, with the IRA gaining the upper hand against the British. Finally, in 1922 Ireland —excluding the counties of Northern Ireland with Protestant majorities, namely Antrim, Down, Tyrone, Fermanagh, Armagh, and Derry—became a free state , adopting its own constitution in 1937. The free state of Ireland left the British Commonwealth and became the Republic or Ireland in 1949. But not every Irish citizen was happy with the state of affairs; many still believed that the country should be united and free. A civil war was inevitable. In fact, it is a struggle that continues today, though now since the peace process, in a democrtatic political way.  

1st August  Arrive Dublin. Driver will meet early arrival and transfer to Conrad

2nd August  Rest of group arrive and are transferred to Conrad.  Walking tour of Dublin

 

Dublin has long been a centre of art and culture. Stroll through the elegant Georgian streets of Merrion and Fitzwilliam Squares, shop in the elegant emporiums of Grafton Street and Powerscourt Townhouse, explore the collections of the National Museum and National Gallery, the Irish Museum of Modern Art, and many fine small private collections. The range of art and artefacts is enormous, and you will have no problem spending many hours enthralled.. The city is over a thousand years old, and many of the towns and settlements that surround it are equally ancient. Successive centuries have left their distinctive overlays of character and architecture which means that Dublin has a wealth of historically significant and fascinating sights to explore such as Dublin Castle, where the Normans ruled from the 12th Century, St Patrick's Cathedral, of which Jonathan Swift was Dean, and Trinity College, famous for The Book of Kells and for its alumni who include Oscar Wilde and Oliver Goldsmith. And no visit to Dublin could be complete without visiting either the Old Whiskey Distillery or the Guinness Storehouse!  To chill totally wander down to Meeting House Square in Temple Bar and check out the Food  Market.

 

 

A Tour of Dublin's Fair City

Trinity College
Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth. Among many famous students to attend the college were playwrights Oliver Goldsmith and Samuel Beckett. Trinity's lawns and cobbled quads provide a pleasant haven in the hearth of the city. The major attractions are the Old Library and the Book of Kells, housed in the Treasury. 
 

Bank of Ireland , College Green
The prestigious offices of Ireland 's national bank began life as the first purpose-built parliament house in Europe . Completed in 1739 it served as Ireland 's Parliament until the Act Of Union in 1801  

The Olympia Theatre - Dating back to the 1800s, this Victorian music hall-style theatre has a capacity of 1,300. It presents an eclectic schedule of variety shows, musicals, operettas, concerts, ballet, comedy, and drama. As a variation, for the late-night crowd, live bands are often featured after regular programs.  A brief diversion here will bring you into the trendy Temple Bar area. 
City Hall 
Erected between 1769 and 1779, and formerly the Royal Exchange. It is a square building in Corinthian style, with three fronts of Portland stone. Since 1852, however it has been the centre of the municipal government. The interior is designed as a circle within a square, with fluted columns supporting a dome shaped roof over the central hall. The building contains many items of interest, including 102 royal charters and the mace and sword of the city. 
Dublin Castle
Built between 1208 and 1220, this complex represents some of the oldest surviving architecture in the city, and was the centre of English power in Ireland for over seven centuries until it was taken of by the Irish Free State in 1922. 
St. Patrick's Cathedral

Ireland 's largest church was founded beside a sacred well where St. Patrick is said to have baptised converts around 450A.D. A stone slab bearing a Celtic cross and covering the well was un-earthed at the turn of the century(20th). It is now preserved in the west end of the cathedral's nave. The original building was just a wooden chapel and remained so until 1192 when Archbishop John Comyn rebuilt the cathedral in stone. Much of the present building dates back to work completed between 1254 and 1270.  

Powerscourt Town House Centre
The townhouse of a famous Georgian family. Today the building houses one of the cities nicest shopping centres. In the 1960's major restoration turned it into a centre of specialist galleries, antique shops, jewellery stalls, cafés and other shop units. 

 

And back to St Stephen's Green

 

 And of course Molly Malone herself

"In Dublins fair city, where the girls are so pretty, I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheeled her wheel-barrow, through streets broad and narrow, Crying cockles and mussels,
alive, alive o!"

Aug 3rd .   Full day tour of Dublin and its surroundings

Overnight at the Conrad Hotel

Aug 4  Tour to Cashel   one night at the Cashel Palace Hotel.

 

Leave Dublin and head to the town of Kildare, founded in the 5th Century by St Brigid.  There visit the Irish National Stud and The Japanese Gardens.  Head on to Kilkenny for lunch

The medieval city of Kilkenny is noted for its tales of ghosts and witches. See St Canice's Cathedral named after the town's founder. Known nowadays as the creative heart of Ireland, Kilkenny is where ancient history and contemporary culture meet.  There are medieval shops,  perfectly preserved Elizabethan houses and its breathtaking Norman Castle on the banks of the River Nore. 

The Rock of Cashel is one of the most spectacular archeological sites in Ireland. It sits on the outskirts of Cashel on a large mound of limestone bristling with ancient fortifications. Mighty stone walls encircle a complete round tower, a roofless abbey, a 12th century Romanesque chapel, and numerous other buildings and high crosses. The Rock of Cashel is composed four structures which are the Hall of the Vicars Choral, the cathedral, the round tower, and Cormac's Chapel. 

Aug 5  Tour  to Killarney  2  nights at the Aghadoe heights Hotel 

By way of Athassel Abbey, near Golden on the way from Cashel to Cahir by the back roads is the largest mediaeval priory in Ireland, dating from the 12th century, with very extensive outbuilding in a romantic riverside setting.
  Cahir Castle was once the stronghold of the powerful Butler family. It retains its impressive keep, tower and much of its original defensive structure. It is one of Ireland's largest and best preserved castles.At Annes Grove is a supremely romantic garden: laid out largely in the early twentieth century and Robinsonian in style, it also incorporates elements of an earlier, eighteenth century 'ornamented glen' and landscape. Many of the rare rhododendrons in the extensive woodland garden were introduced through subscription to the Kingdom Ward expeditions. On sheltered slopes overlooking the River Awbeg magnolias, hoherias and eucryphias grow to unusual size. Behind the eighteenth-century house secretive paths wind down past limestone cliffs and offer glimpses of the river, lily ponds and wild meadow below. Riverside walks are bordered by giant foliage plants and naturalised day lilies, astilbes and primulas. Above the cliff, the walled garden offers a display of herbaceous plants.

Follow the valley of The Blackwater to Killarney

Aug 6th

7.45  am  Tee off - Killeen Course!

Depending on the time and weather you may be able to see most of The Ring of Kerry.  a circular route around the Iveragh Peninsula .  It is best to do it in an anti clockwise direction - Killorglin, Glenbeigh, etc. 

Killorglin situated on a hill overlooking the wide and graceful River Laune, a river offering salmon and trout angling. Dominating the landscape to the south are the MacGillycuddys Reeks. It is the location of the famous "Puck Fair" festival - On the bridge into the town is a salmon smoke house called The Fishery.

The Bog Village is situated half way between Killorglin and Glenbeigh on the main Ring of Kerry route. It is a must for you to stop off and enjoy a step back in time to the early 18th century to recapture the way life would have been at that time. Peat, or turf as it is usually called in Ireland , is harvested from bogs and is still used as domestic fuel. The village is here to preserve the past for your enjoyment. This is a most worthwhile and historic visit to see the real Kerry life as it was, in the heart of Kerry's bogland. The Bog Village is adjacent to the Red Fox Inn Bar and Restaurant, which is open seven days a week.

 

Glenbeigh is a popular holiday base nestled at the foot of a well-wooded mountain and close to the head of Dingle Bay .  It is dominated by the strange ruin of Wynn's Folly, or Hedley Towers , once home of the Winns, Barons Headley. The Title dated from 1797. Wynn's Folly was burnt down in 1922. The view from 'Wynn's Folly is superb, and provides a breathtaking view of the village and surrounds of Glenbeigh.  After Glenbeigh you will pass through Kells Bay where a local shepherd gives demonstrations of working sheep dogs

From Cahirciveen you can divert to the right and take the car ferrry to Knightstown on Valentia Island .  Be sure to visit The Slate Quarry, Glanleam Gardens and The Tetrapod Trackway -   In 1993 an undergraduate geology student (Iwan Stossel) made the discovery of a lifetime. While examining rocks on the island's coast he came across a rock platform containing a set of ancient animal footprints. The tracks have since been dated to almost 400 million years ago and are regarded as among the earliest footprints known to science, and certainly the oldest known footprints in Europe .

Valentia is an island of unique scenic beauty, tropical vegetation, breathtaking cliffs and magnificent seascapes. The island is an excellent centre for sea angling and diving in unpolluted waters. The bridge was built at Portmagee in 1970. The island, about 11km long by 3km wide is one of the most westerly points of Europe . The surface is bold and rocky, two prominent features being Geokaun Mountain 268 meters on the north and Bray head 180 metres on the south, both are splendid vantage points for the sightseer. The Skellig Experience is located here. This is where the story of the Skelligs is told. The themes include the monastic settlement, the lighthouse, the bird and underwater life.

 

 Head on to Ballinskelligs via St Finans Bay .  In Ballinskelligs is the Cill Rialaig Centre - once a deserted and almost forgotten pre-famine village of thatched stone cottages situated on the Bolus road near Ballinskelligs, it is now an international artists' retreat .

On through Charlie Chaplin's Waterville and Cagerdaniel where, by golden beaches, stands Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O'Connell, lawyer, politician and statesman. Today some 120 hectares of the lands of Derrynane, together with Derrynane House, make up Derrynane National Historic Park . Plantations and garden walks were laid out in the 18th and 19th centuries, principally north and west of the house. Some features of the demesne are strongly associated with Daniel O'Connell, including the old Summer House. The main area of the gardens, set inland and to the north of the house, can be reached through a tunnel under the road.

Between Waterville and Derrynane you will see a Neolithic Stone alignment on the ridge above the LHS of the road.  Outside Caherdaniel is a ruined Iron Age fort on the RHS.

  At Castlecove, some distance to the left off the main road, is Staigue Fort - probably the finest example of a stone fort in Ireland , and is about 2500 years old. It is built of local stone and is almost circular, 27m in diameter. The walls are almost 4m thick at the base, and 2m thick at the top. The north side is still perfect with some of the old coping stones still in position. There are two small chambers in the wall, one on the west side and one on the north side. The stairways are probably the most interesting feature of the fort, and run inside the wall almost to the wall's full height. They lead to narrow platforms on which the fort's defenders stood.

  Through Sneem and back to Killarney.

 

Alternatively just take in the highlights of The National Park, The lakes of Killarney, and Muckross House and Gardens.

Aug 7th

Tour The Dingle Peninsula  - Dingle is the main town on the Dingle Peninsula, the westernmost point in Ireland. It is just big enough to have all the necessary services for tourists, and a steady night time beat for Irish traditional music.Dingle is traditionally Irish, being in theheart of the Chorca Dhuibhne Gealtacht. The main industries here are farming and fishing.The harbour is always busy with fishing boats and yachts, and its few streets are lined with brightly painted shops, pubs and restaurants. In 1970, Dingle was introduced to the world through the film Ryans Daughter, and Dingle fans from all over the world flock to the small town every year. In the 1990's, the town has gained fame in the world of music, history, gastronomy, scenery and not least it's friendly dolphin. From Dingle travel on and visit Slea Head, Dunquin, Ballyferriter and back into Dingle. You now take the northern route via the lovely Conor Pass, to Stradbally, Camp and Tralee. There is magnificent coastal scenery at the Western end of the peninsula. The Dingle Peninsula – has been inhabited for almost 6,000 years. The first settlers on the peninsula were nomadic hunters and gatherers who foraged on the coast for their food. Later Stone Age man and Bronze Age man were to build their tombs, erect their standing stones, and toil the land for the first time. The Celtic population arrived in the couple of hundred years before the birth of Christ and brought their ancestoral goddess "Duibhne", after which the Dingle Peninsula has been named in Gaelic: Corca Dhuibhne, the seed or tribe of Duibhne. In the centuries that followed, the peninsula was to be visited by Vikings, Normans and English. It is also a centre of craft workers, some inspired by the talented Mulcahy family



Each wave of settlers left their mark on the locality and it may be said that the locality left its mark on them. They sustained life here only with great difficulty. Sometimes they warred with each other; at other times they lived side by side in peace and in neighbourliness. They intermarried until with the passage of time they became fused into one people – the people of Corca Dhuibhne of the present day, a people who still speak the Irish language and foster the native culture and who in their daily lives bear witness to indigenous values.

It is certain, then, that the settlers have been of different racial strains. There are very few written accounts of their doings, but they have left behind them a great number of material remains as proof of their journeying and their settling here.

This is one of the richest areas in archaeological remains on the west coast of Europe, with almost 2,000 sites. Here are the largest collections in the world of clocháns or beehive huts, of the stones with the unique ogham writing, of dúnta or ring forts. These remains, including the Oratory at Gallarus and the cross stone of Reasc, give evidence of skilled craftsmanship.

The family may enjoy taking a fishing boat from Dingle town to see Fungi, the extravert wild Dolphin.  Overnight at Adare Manor.  Adare is a two and a half hour drive from Dingle Town.

Aug 8th 

Tee time at 8.30 am

Explore Adare or visit  Blarney Castle, one of Ireland's oldest and most historic castles, built around 1446. An ancient stronghold of the MacCarthys, Lords of Muskerry and one of the strongest fortresses in Munster, its walls are eighteen feet thick in places. Located on the parapet of the castle is the famous "Blarney Stone". According to local legend, after kissing this stone, you will have the gift of eternal eloquence, or "the gift of the gab". To kiss the stone, you must first lie on your back, then leaning your head backwards and downwards, you kiss the underside of the stone.     This is a little under 2 hours  from Adare Manor

Adare Village

Aug 9th 

County Clare and The Burren

    

It is worth stopping at Bunratty Castle , which was built in 1425 by the MacNamaras and then passed to the O'Briens who were Earls of Thomond. The Castle is furnished with mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings.  Bunratty Folk Park recreates rural and urban life in the 19th century Ireland . Visitors can for example view farmhouses of various economic backgrounds, a watermill, church and village street. The Walled Garden at 19th Bunratty House has been sensitively restored and is a must-see for all garden enthusiasts

 

Rising 650 feet from the roiling Atlantic, the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare take our breath away. From their majestic height we see the Aran Islands in the distance, and we observe kittiwakes, puffins, razorbills, and other birds catch the dizzying coastal winds. “Not enough wood to hang a man, not enough water to drown him, and not enough clay to cover his corpse.” That was how one of Oliver Cromwell’s generals described the Burren. Words, however, simply cannot do justice to this eerie, peculiar 193-square mile area of ancient seabed that suffered glacial activity during its long history. Today we see treeless meadows of limestone karst that forms natural pavement interspersed with lush flora. Burren means great rock, and the rock formations do dominate the landscape, but many visitors come to study what grows between the rocks—an amazing mix of arctic, alpine, temperate, and tropical vegetation growing side by side. Twenty-two varieties of orchids thrive here, nourished by underground rivers and rich soil. Scholars of history can scour the Burren for tombs, chambers, and dolmens (two stones that support a horizontal slab), traces of Stone Age inhabitants.    After visiting The Cliffs travel through Lisdoonvarna,  Kilfenora and Corofin to rejoin the main road at Ennis.

Return  to Adare, arriving there in time to enjoy the village

The streets of this village, often called the prettiest place in ireland,  are lined with lovely cottages, many with thatched roofs and most with colorful front gardens. They were constructed by the Earl of Dunraven, who lived in the Victorian-Gothic Adare Manor.  

At 4.00 PM  Horse back riding session has been arranged at the Clonshire equestrian centre in Adare..Clonshire Equestrian & Polo Centre is an equestrian centre which can offer you a rewarding and enjoyable experience no matter what your riding level or equestrian discipline is. The estate comprises 120 acres of beautiful parkland.  A large course of cross country fences of many styles, types  and heights has been developed in the park, allowing for many different courses and routes to suit all standards.

Curragh Chase Askeaton Foynes Flying Boat Museum

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 August 10th.    Departure